CMT is an abbreviation for, “cut, made and trimmed”, which was used often as
described in a clothing industry that once flourished across England.
Commonly known as the rag trade, it has suffered many low blows over the past
couple of decades, but never gone down for the count. But this is specific to
mass production. On the other hand the bespoke industry and CMT are the
gathering storm, soon to challenge the conveyor belts on many fronts.
Savile Row has played a major role helping the industry’s survivors, like
local silk weavers, CMT and tie manufacturers. The bespoke market is directly
driven by demand and therefore sustainable, with little impact on our
environment.
If you’re looking for value, there is always something new and exciting, but
not easy to find. “Made in England”
individuality and originality need not cost a fortune, so if your budget is a
little tight, don’t be concerned, because there are brand names that cater to
your needs, at the right price.
One prime example is Timothy Everest, a long time emerging Savile Row
tailor. His designer silk ties (Spitalfield Flower) impress upon you the
conservatism expected of Savile Row, but with a unique originality, affordable
luxury best describes Timothy’s ties, made in England with the Savile Row
stamp of approval, all this for £45.00.
But if you’re looking for a bespoke suit by the same name, then dig deep,
for a few thousand pounds. Remember he dresses David Beckham.
Don’t forget where the first dark suit originated, Brummell rejected 18th
century frills (dandy man). His mandate, a dark blue coat, buff-coloured
pantaloons and waistcoat, black boots and a clean white neck cloth, survives
today asthedark business suit, white shirt and silk tie
He was particularly adamant about the whiteness of his cravats. As he made his
daily rounds from the park, various gentleman's clubs and fashionable homes,
Brummell would stop and change his cravat as often as three times a day. He
preferred neck cloths that were lightly starched and carefully folded.
The simplicity of Brummell's uniform was adopted by everyone from many working
men to his friend, the Prince Regent, later King George IV. For the first time,
poorer men hoping to make their way in the world could easily imitate upper
class fashion.
Moving slightly away from the conservative tone of Savile Row, and across
the Thames River
to Battersea, we take a look at Ian Flaherty, a man of substantial artistic
talent. Already renowned world wide for his vibrant cufflinks designs, he uses
pure English Pewter, Swarovski Crystals and brilliant enamels.
His designer silk ties strike a similar chord; they reflect Ian’s artistry
through colour arrangement and symmetry. Slightly more expensive than Timothy
Everest at £59.00, all his designs are produced in limited quantities and
handmade in London. They’re sure to
give many years good knottage.
Now while we’re on the subject of ties, did you know? That in 1880, the
rowing club at Oxford Universities
Exeter College,
invented the first school ties. After an emotional win over their rivals, they
celebrated by removing their ribbon hat bands from their boater hats and tying
them, four in hand around their necks.
When they ordered a set of ties, with the colours from their hatbands, they
had accidentally created the modern school tie. Schools, clubs, and athletic
ties appeared in abundance. Some schools had different ties for various grades,
levels of achievement, and for graduates. Thanks to historians and their method
of accurate documentation all the original college colours are still available
from archived samples and replicate ties can be made to order.
Now, to a more unlikely candidate: Vivienne Westwood.
She has ventured down every avenue from designing evening gowns to crockery for
Wedgwood. Three times winner of “fashion designer of the year” and awarded DBE
in 2006 for her contribution to the fashion industry. Vivienne’s Designer silk
ties are original without being garish novelties. In August her spring summer
collection will be on display. The big surprise is her fashion accessories
for men they’re as refreshing as a cool breeze on a hot summer’s day.
Vivienne has garnered much respect over the years.
And as autumn wanes, fashion completes another seasonal cycle. And we wait
in great anticipation for new styles freshly watered down from the catwalks.
New designers emerge while others fade. And so another turbulent season
approaches. Buyers have to keep their wits alert, fashion rises and falls as
quickly as the tide. For commercial buyers, developing a theme is as important
as selecting the appropriate brand names and styles. The theme, “made in England”
it goes against the grain as more and more brands head east to reduce
production costs. But as sure as fashion completes another cycle then customers
will see the light and demand a return to home grown qualities.
Closing anecdote: 1858:Henry Poole earns the first of his Royal Warrants
from the newly crowned Emperor Napoleon III
of France to whom Poole and Baron de Rothschild advanced
£10,000 to stage a coup in France
to establish The Second Empire. At the accession of Emperor Napoleon and his
Empress Josephine, Henry Poole erects an audacious gas illuminated
eagle-and-coronet light show above the facade of No 36: a tradition he repeats
on all great Royal occasions connected to customers of Henry Poole.
Article Source: http://www.theukarticledirectory.co.uk